So... brace yourself, this is gonna be a long one!
I think Ben amd Julliette came on Tuesday ... I don't remember exactly as I am vague with dates before a paper. Ben called me at about noon-ish. I was still asleep, I probably fell asleep at some unearthly hour in the morning, so I spoke groggily I guess, but was so happy to hear his voice at the other end! I couldnt meet them the same day, what with my paper presentation on Hogarth coming up that friday... I wish I had nothing, then I would have bunked and gone to Jaipur with them! But no, so they went on ahead and I got over with my presentation.
That Friday, the class got over quite late. I wanted to be home soon so I could clean up and prepare for their arrival. The guest night at my old hostel was also that friday. I wish the guest night was another day, so I could have gone to it! It went quite well I hear, everyone had a lot of fun. I decided it was unfair on my mom... so came back home like a good daughter. I was under the impression that they would come to Delhi on Saturday, but appearently they took a bus back and came back that same Friday. It was good I didn't spontaneously decide to go to the hostel instead of coming home. Ben called when I was in the Metro. was near Dwarka, so couldn't go back to pick them up. I gave Ben directions and told them I would receive them at my station. till then I ran and got food supplies and cleaned up the house a bit!
As I marched to the station to receive them, a metro approached and I just instinctly knew that they were in it. I stood at the exit and saw everyone from the train trickle past me. I felt my instincts may have deceived me, but then there they were - two very obvious foreigners with huge backpacks coming down last! after bearhugs, we came home with slight arguments with the rickshaw-wala. we had dinner in dim light, coz I had accidently blown a fuse with my table lamp and we had thought it was a power cut! (oops!!)
The next day we headed out on a sightseeing tour of Delhi. I hired a taxi coz I still don't have a drivers licenseand a car! Anyhow, after driving past Rashtrapati Bhawan, or the President's House, we stopped at India Gate. It is such a stark remenant of Indai's colonial past, yet it is dedicated to the 'amar jawan' - the immortal soldier. Of course there we encountered numerous beggars, peddlers trying to sell us useless articles, and people excited to see foreigners, wanting to click pictures with them... very annoying in my opinion. Ben poking us Ju's was infinitely better than having that constant pestering from that JUnta :) !!
After India Gate, we headed to Purana Quila or Old Fort. Ben spun Juliette around much to the ashtonishment to passerbys. And he climbed a tree seaching for a squirrel for her (these two are so cute!) I in the meanwhile was an extremely bad guide. I didn't know my history or what it was I was showing! Will def. read up for the next bunch of visitors. and I also kept talking to a travel agent to organize a trip to Khajuraho. While talking and walking about I accidently led them to a place were about 3-4 couples were 'making out' the Indian way. When I realized after 10 mins of talking loudly in that place disturbing the couples' privacy, I was so embarrassed! Mortified of having led B&J there! :p
After Purana Quila, we then headed over to Lotus Temple, which is probably one of my favourite spots in Delhi. Only there can one sit in peace and quiet for a moment. It is the Bahai temple of worship. It reminds one of the Sidney Opera House, but it is the shape of a lotus flower. Inside, the benches are marble topped! It is cool inside and on a summer day, the best place on earth to be! After all that peace it is ironic what happened next! While trying to get out of the stuffed parking lot, I blew my cool as there was absolute chaos! Cars were parked blocking other cars, and the parking attendants did nothing to help. When they finally stopped the flow of traffic into the overflowing place, some moron drove the car on the wrong side, blocking our way to go! Gah! there is no respect for a system in this country!!! I was more angry as we still need to see Qutub Minar and stop at the travel agents office. I shouted at people and Ben was surprised to see that side of me! We rushed to the travel agent's posh office in saket after Lotus temple, where we bought the tickets for Khajuraho.
After that we went to Qutub Minar. I really like it there too. The ruins are remarkable.
We went to Dili Haat next, where we ate chaat and shopped. As we were leaving, a girl came up to us and I told her in hindi slang to scat. The word can be pronounced to mean 'to burst' and she started cracking up saying that I am not a coconut that I can burst and so forth. she was quite cute actually and I ended up buying her an ice-cream to the girls extreme delight. But a woman with a babe came begging and I just got mad! You help one, and they all come crowding as if you are a money bag with all this dirty cash sprouting from under your armpits that you must rid yourself off and give to them instead. I don't have disposable income! In fact, I don't have any income at all! Sometimes you just have to make your heart into stone. I refused her and kept feeling guilty most of the way home! (Ahh! I still do!)
The next day (Sunday), Juliette went to Agra early in the morning. And I and Ben had a lazy day. We talked and then got ready in the late afternoon and I took him to Khan Market. After a round of Khan Chacha's kebab and paneer rolls, we decided to chill at a cafe. I thought Baristas, but then we ended up at Choko La. Mmmmm. I love that place! Its expensive for India, but its so neat (and very non-Indian). We ordered the first and the last item in the menu and something from in-between! I wanted to show Ben my university, but then it was a Sunday, and it was dark. So, we went back home. Juliette had already returned and she was not feeling well. She had a rough day, and the next day we had to go to Khajuraho!
We caught the Rajdhani train to Jhansi from New Delhi Railway Station. It was a coach train and we were well served. It was quite nice. They brought water, tea/coffee and breakfast! I didn't know we would get all that, and my mom had packed food for us. From Jhansi we went to Khajuraho via a place called Orrccha. I honestly had not heard of it, nor was inclined to go there. But we had time and the travel agent put it in our itenary... It was hot and I was sleepy. Juliette wasnt well and she sat down in a cool restaurant, while Ben and I went with the guide who for some reason would only describe things in the sunshine! why oh why could he not talk to us in the shade? Anyhow. It wasn't a very great place and we weren't very enthusiastic either!
When we reached the hotel in Khajuraho, we all did a mental doubletake. The place was quite posh. I wasn't prepared for being taken to a hotel with fountains and a swimming pool - ahem! a CLEAN swimming pool! Our room was nice. We settled down and after a while decided to look about the hotel. Juliette rested in the room. Ben and I ended up watching a very random pupet show. it was quite funny! We then also went to see a Sound and Light show at the Western group of Temples. It was a steal! I am too cynical I guess... the 'historical' info was good to get, but overall it was too much money for an hour of boredom. ...and some enthusiast kept taking pics with a blinding flash! Use night-vision, moron!!! Ben and I made fun of the show and I think we offended some people who overheard us!
The next day (Tuesday), after a nice buffet breakfast at the hotel, we headed over to sightsee. boy o boy I was excited! I had wanted to see Khajuraho ever since! Khajuraho is famous for its ancient Indian temples and the erotic sandstone scupltures on the temple walls. They are replete with sculptures of sexual postures that are described in the Kamasutra. But they are not meant to be pornographic, even though it seems to be the case. The sexual union of a couple symbolizes a greater more divine aspect of attaining union with the divine. Esctasy of the flesh is equivalent to esctasy of salvation.
We went to the western temples first. Juliette -poor soul - was too sick to enjoy. She mostly sat while the guide took Ben and I around. The guide was god enough. He did seem to have a naughty side to him. When decribing some of the erotic scupltures he would sort of snigger. I kept a very stone face coz he would at times point to certain things... He sort of challenged me to enter into his naughty little joke, which I thought unappropriate! We bumped into an indian expatriate couple whose guide was excessively friendly and jolly. I wish he were our guide instead! He had a flair with what he was describing, and nothing naughty about him.
We went to the Eastern group via the hotel where we dropped Juliette off. It was much better for her to sit in the cool lobby rather that the hot open air or stuffy car while we looked about. The eastern group were less impressive. They also occupied a smaller area than the previous group. The effects of time were, however, more visible on them. They are Jaina temples, and one is still functional. The temples had sustained much destruction, but were renovated and the ugly new parts stand in stark contrast. There were huge mango trees in the courtyard which reminded me of the coming mango season!! yummm! too bad B&J would leave before mangoes flood the market.
We returned to the hotel and found Juliette reading God of Small Things by the carom table. I showed them how to paly and we proceeded to play carom while I explained some Indian references in the book to Juliette. Ironically, I lost to both B&J! Coz my striker kept going into the hole and I had to forfeit my points!
We lunched at an Italian place, ate fettuccine! and then headed back to Jhansi to catch the train back to Delhi. When we reached Jhansi in the evening, we found out that our ticket was schedule for the next day! The agent who recieved us told me to give some money to him while he got us tickets and we could go eat dinner. Our appetite (if any) vanished and I didn't feel good about just giving money like that! I called up dad and discussed what to do. B&J had a flight the next night so it was important for us to leave the same night! We then went over to the railway station and while Ben and Juliette stayed in the waiting area, I went with the dude to see what could be done. We got general tickets and then went ot speak with the TC of the train if we could get berths. After much tension, we got seats and came to Delhi the next morning somehow! at the station in Delhi, the auto-rickshaw guys mobbed us. the prepaid booth was closed so I was in a fix. called up dad to ask what shud the cost be around so I could negotiate. (Thank God Dad was in Delhi!) One man said 250 rupees to dwarka! But then the booth opened and we went there. A guy said to me, "Madam, don't get a slip, give me 200 rupees, I will take you." When I got a slip, I paid only 145 rupees!!
The auto guy that took us stopped at a gas station as soon as we were on the way. He was rude and I was perturbed. Why couldn't he have filled it beforehand? The thing is, you have to get out of the scooter when its being filled, and I had opened a shawl and we were sitting snug as possible inside. The auto guy rudely drove away from the station and I blew my cool. I told him to stop the scooter immediately and let me what the F was his problem. He then became sweet as sugar and we reached home without any gas running out on us! He was just being a bastard, he had enough gas!After catching up some sleep that morning, we got ready and went to get the plane tickets. It was taking time, and they couldn't accept a debit card, so we went to CP in search of the bank. the ATM was not giving cash, and the bank wasnt helpful. In the meantime the travel agency calls to say that the airline gave away one of the tickets! But we got the next day's and I asked them to issue it before it was given away too! Thankfully, without an advance, they issued it on trust... But the money, there was still none to pay for the ticket yet! so we decided to head back home and use the internet to call the customer service. we tried calling the 'toll-free' number from my cellphone and ended up with an international call that took forever! but before we returned home, we stopped over at the Oxford Bookstore. and also to Nirula's where Ben bought the ice-cream he lost to me in a bet! on the way to Jhansi to Khajuraho we had this bet. Ben would not agree when I said that the capital of Guatemala is Guatemala City. He thought I was confusing it with Panama. I was myself unsure at first, but then I knew I was right, so I bet him! And won! hahahah! will gloat about it forever...
Juliette was feeling much better that day, and she was finally eating food! so it was a good day! we returned home, Ben spoke to his customer service executive in Bangalore and it was all good! We slept early and next day tried to get money. It worked and Ben got out some, but then it stopped! we went in search for an internet cafe. it seemed like innumerable hurdles had to be crossed! the 1st cafe didnt have headphones.. the 2nd cafe didnt have skype. they downloaded it and the electricity went. the comp ben was using had no backup. so we shifted to Juliette's who took another comp. and we waited for skype to download all over again! but finally ben spoke to a scottish lady who fixed the prob. we got the money, bought the ticket and heaved a sigh of relief!
After that, a round of shopping at Palika Bazaar, Janpath and off to Sarvana for some good South Indian food and the Game. Oh shit! I just lost it! For those who don't know the Game, you are so much better off!
We came back home, with an half an hour for last minute packing before B & J left. We hired a car to drop them off at the airport. I chose not to go, since it was dark and I'd return alone. And this way I wouldn't start crying! An ambassador car came to take them. I was glad, coz it is such an Indian car!
Those six days passed by so quickly! When I came back to my apartment, after having waved them off downstairs, I felt like there was a baby gap. The study, emptied of the backpacks looked strangely deserted. and I longed for Ben's company and conversation. It took me a week back to get into M. Phil mode. and I can finally rest in peace now that I have written this blog overcoming my nostalgia! :)
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2 comments:
i spoke with ben before i read this and he told me of some of the things he did and saw in india but your account is much fuller, though he did mention about your transformation into a a strong Indian woman who gets her way in Delhi. I think he was quite stunned by the difference between the soft spoken Okinawan Juhi and the assertive Indian Juhi. :) Must be a sight to see! Thanx for writing this up. So jealous of Ben that he got to see a little bit of India with you. Hope one day, I get to do the same. :)
hahahah! :)
Yes, there is a difference. I don't remember many opportunities that would make me mad in Okinawa. On the other hand, unfortunately, there are innumerable things that do in India... I was so NOT like this before, but I learned to be stronger when I started staying on my own here in the hostel. Things change, people change!
I do hope you will come over one day! I think Ben told me you havent see the Taj? Your visit to India is thus incomplete! Please do complete it! :)
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