yeh Dilli hai meri jaan

22 Feb 2009 : I know I have been away from this site a long time. Only because I didn't feel like writing. this is what I wrote a long time ago but kept it in Drafts:

So, am back. I had a good flight, even though the weather was mostly bad and we had a longer flight than usual for the route. I got to see Fujisan by fluke! Usually the captain makes an announcement, but this time none was made. I was being served a drink at the time and I looked out the window; and there it was, poking out of the clouds, just about to be hidden by the wing of the aircraft.

When I landed, I shedded my coat, and was sweating even in the light sweater I wore. Good Heavens! When I stepped out of the airport, Delhi Juhi persona came back on. I was on guard, coz I had to take a prepaid taxi home. We decided that I am finally old enough to do so on my own :)! Everything went fine. No complaints.

Oh! I have to add: After I wrote that last post, one of my friends came to dad's office where dad and I were. She asked me if I had time to spare. We went and ticked off 3 things on my list - purikura, taiko drums and kaitenzushi. Another girl, also from the Urdu Department also joined us and when we reached Musashi Sakai station yet another girl also from the Urdu dept. greeted Asuka (my friend). Many people know Asuka it seems! The second girl actually reacted to my name by shouting, "Oh! Juhi? Juhi Chawala!?!" I have not had that reaction ever in Japan from a Japanese person, and its anyway been a while since such a thing happened. For those who are wondering.... Juhi Chawala is a famous Bollywood actress. Although her shinning era has gone, in the late 80's and 90's she was quite the hit. I was not named after her, although everyone seemed to identify me to her for the longest time very much to my irritation. I was not irritated this time, just shocked that this happened yet again and that too in a foreign country.

Left for next time

I am at the end of my trip, and less than 24 hours remain till I catch my plane back. My bags are packed. But I am not ready to go. I still have so much to do. I have mixed feelings about leaving. I never really like the fact of returning to Delhi (for obvious reasons). This time though, the cold has finally taken its toll on me and I wish nothing more but warmer climes. Since the past 2 days, it has been dark and wet. I was happy while it was sunny; luckily in my 1 month, 2 weeks and 4 day trip, it was not sunny for maybe just 6 or 7 days. Tokyo is only going to get colder as February approaches, and Delhi must have already begun to get warmer.

The things I wasn't able to do ...
Karaoke - I met up with some friends, but was not able to plan a karaoke night. It is so lame to go alone! I don't even think there are single karaoke boxes in Japan. Karaoke is best done when a group of genki gaijin get together. My favourite times in Karaoke have been with my dear friends from Okinawa. Next time I might just drag someone along with me.
Visit Nikko and Hakone - Plans didn't take shape. Weather was also a huge consideration.
Sumo - I was ready for this one, especially since the tournament took place in Tokyo this Jan. But my dad left his big Nikon camera in Delhi. It would have been best to take pictures since I would have bought the cheapest ticket that seats one very far from the pit. (Even the cheapest ticket costs more than Rs.2000 though!)
Kabuki - I dont really know why I didn't put any effort into going and seeing it! Just lazy I guess..
Climb Fuji - like I said before, not possible in winters anyway.
Purikura - again, a group activity. I would have done this with friends studying in the Urdu Dept. but plans got cancelled when one friends caught the flu.
Kaitenzushi - no prob coz I ate lots of kappa maki bought from the supermarket.
Tokyo Disneyland - thrice cancelled due to bad weather.
Taiko drums - Ah.. whatever.
I am getting bored of this post... so what if I couldnt do all the things I wanted to! Just escaping Dehli was enough! :) and I DID do so many other things that I am quite satisfied with! To hell with it! These can remain pending so that I can dream about them while I do my dissertation...

...dreaming of my next trip!! :)

details from NMWA

Detail from Paul Signac's The Port of Saint-Tropez

Detail from Yellow Irises by Monet:

Daruma

To know what the Daruma is, check this site! I could write out an abridged version, but am lazy. Plus this article is really informative and interesting. Highly recommend a read through!!

This is one of the two Darumas I bought. This other is more decorative (i.e. it has the eyes drawn) and this one is functional (i.e. I shall make a wish on it.):

Ueno

I wanted to go to the zoo in Ueno for a long time to see Pandas. Unfortunately when I arrived at the ticket counter and asked the sweet lady if it was possible to see this cute creature, I was told that it had passed away sometime ago. I nonetheless went in, because I haven't been to a zoo in many years. I think the last time was when I was 8 years old and we went to Frankfurt Zoo. My chief memory from that visit was seeing Flamingos and buying a parrot and a peacock stuff toys. I might have been to Delhi Zoo - but that was ages and ages ago. I find zoos sad and the animals pitiful. This zoo despite being in a much better shape than many zoos in India, was still depressing. But I saw a couple of polar bears and a gang of very restless meerkats among other animals that I hadn't seen before.

At the entrance:

Origami cranes for the memory of Panda:

A real (not origami) Japanese crane:

Sleeping Emperor Penguins (what an uncomfortable posture, though!):

Drowsy, Polar Bear #1:

Unsure of Whether to Jump in the Water Or Not, Polar Bear #2:

National Bird of Trinidad, Scarlet Ibis:One of the funniest mammals I have seen, Meerkats:

Swarm of Rats:

This Guy happily posed while I took pictures of him! Seriously!!

Flamingos... a disappointment from what I remember in Frankfurt:


Hippos are huge! I never really realised how huge they must be!
'ey there, mate!
Mother goose:

I also went to two Museums in Ueno that day - the Tokyo National Museum and the National Museum of Western Art. TNM was quite big and more valuable for people with an interest in ancient art and Japanese art. It was nice to look at the Indian Miniatures preserved there and the history of Buddha in art traced there.

I had been to National Museum of Western Art before, but I couldn't resist going there again! I had an hour before closing time and the option of 2 Museums - Natural Science and Western art. I chose the Monets, the Renoirs and the Cezannes over dinosaurs. I got to take many pictures this time, but I might clog your RAM with so many photos loading on the page! Also, I think it would be a copyright issue.

yuki mi daifuku

This is the famed ice-cream mochi that made me fat in Okinawa :)

Actually, I tasted the brown one for the first time today... and I came to the conclusion that I like the plain one better. Ahhh! oishii so!!

Niigata

Once upon a time during Golden Week in Kume jima, Okinawa, I met this interesting person from Niigata who was staying with his girlfriend and two other friends at the same camping grounds as we were. We had a big barbecue with many other JETs who were also visiting Kume at the same time. And at this barbecue we were generally in high spirits and making much noise as we celebrated the moment. Many others at the camp ground joined us in the festivities, including this person I mentioned. We got to talking and exchanged info. He kept in touch with me (thank you, facebook) for the love of Indian ‘curry’.

This time when I came to Japan after more than a year, I needed to see some snow. What place better than the very one which saw the birth of skiing in Japan – Niigata. My friend had kindly offered his parents house and his time to show me Niigata on various occasions before. This time I took advantage of his repeated offer and went there.

I took a bus from Ikebukoro on the evening of the 8th and reached Niigata by night. On the way, I fell asleep soon, but woke up 2 hours or so before my destination. I then kept staring out the window in case it started snowing. Much to my disappointment, the landscape remained black.

Suddenly, maybe it was a reflection of light, I thought I saw white on the ground. Could it be? No... it’s just a figment of my imagination. But look! There it is once again. I must be dreaming… Salt? – It must be salt! It can’t be salt, you fool! Could it really be snow? Is it snow? It’s snow!! I wanted to shout – Snow! Yuki! I wanted to tell everyone in the bus - yuki! I looked around, no one shared my enthusiasm. They would probably think I was mad. In their lifetime, they had probably seen more than a zillion trillion billion million times the amount of snow on the side of the road that I was so excited about.

I calmed down. Actually I got bored after half an hour of looking out for patches of white on the side of the highway. Then came a huge tunnel. It seemed never to end. In the middle somewhere there was a line separating Gunma and Niigata prefectures. I thought there must definitely be plenty snow on top of this mountain we are cutting across.

Once the tunnel was crossed, my eyes got the treat they had been thirsty for. A layer of white covered the place. There were mountains of snow. And heavy machinery had been used to clear it up from the highway. My boredom disappeared and I stared till my eyes literally hurt and I could see no more white.

My friend met me at the bus terminal in central Niigata, showed me his favourite haunts around the city and then took me to his parents house which was in the countryside. His parents have a daiko taxi service – which is a special service to drive a drunken person home in their car after their thirst has been quenched at the bar at wee hours of the night. (Japan has a zero percent alcohol rule for driving, and thus such a service exists.) So they were up even at 11:30 in the night when I arrived. It was actually early in their case…

On the way home, Hikaru asked, “By the way, there are two dogs at my parent’s house. Is it ok?” I wanted to laugh, and did! If it was ok? It’s bloody brilliant! I love dogs and sometimes hunger for petting one! I miss Mickey more than anything else in this world! I still cry missing him so much! I was, in fact, praying that there be a dog! These dogs were so friendly, just like Mickey. Even their names begin with ‘M’ – Miruku(Milk) and Marin. They kept wagging their tails, and jumping on me and sniffing me until it tickled. Ah! The best welcome ever!

And Hikaru’s mother is one of the sweetest ladies I have ever met. I absolutely adore her. She is six years elder to my mother, but she looked like she was Hikaru’s elder sister! Of course she didn’t know English, so we used all devices possible to communicate. She took great care not to use katsuo bushi or dashi in the food she prepared for me. I had some extremely oishii Japanese home food there. If only I could have more understanding people like Hikaru and his mom at restaurants etc.!

The next morning after a filling breakfast, we headed over to an onsen called Yasuda onsen, where his mother would not let me pay. She said something to the effect that ‘mama’ will take care of it. I felt only a split-second moment of hesitation to take off all my clothes in front of her – she is mama after all. And then inside, when we were taking a shower before entering the real onsen, she came with a towel-like loofah and rubbed my back!!! I cannot recall a time when I had that luxury before! Maybe my own mom was the last person who scrubbed my back maybe when I was a child… but I have no memory of it.
We then headed to the nearest ski area so I could see snow. Maybe it was the effect of the onsen, but I had no need for the many layers of clothing I brought to protect me from the fear of cold. I put on an extra sweater only because of psychological cold, but really I didn’t need it. My parka was more than enough! I loved it. I was so happy and excited. Hikaru said later that only children are so happy to see snow the way I was. I wanted to play, but it had already hardened. I guess that it is possible to play only after a fresh snowfall, with soft snow that can be molded… It was great for skiing nonetheless. I was asked if I wanted to try my hand at skiing, but I think just walking on ice was enough for the first time!

Next, we went shopping for a special sweet called ‘maanju,’ (It’s like a small sweet bun with filling inside). Then, we went to a sake factory:The rice in Niigata is considered the best quality rice in Japan. So wine made from this rice is naturally also considered good. I was told many facts about sake as Hikaru has extensive knowledge about it and other alcoholic beverages. His old room was almost a storage area for wine!
We went to landlord’s manor later on. It wasn’t really great – the lighting was bad for photography and the trees were bare. It would have been best in autumn or at least a feet of snow for a visit. To wrap up the day, we went shopping for spices and I ended up making dinner – aloo sabji (potato curry), raita (yogurt salad); and bhatooré (fried naan). It was interesting… I hadn’t made aloo sabji and poori since Okinawa!

The second day, we went to an open air onsen – a rotenburo called Murasugi onsen. It was completely unmanned and had a sensor which made noise when a person approached the gate. You had to buy a ticket from a vending machine and simply drop it in the box next to it. The day before Hikaru had made me go in and ‘check’ it. If someone wanted they could just go in free. But the Japanese would never. Also its just 300 yen! So cheap! Therefore, no one would think of cheating! It was an old style, so it didn’t have a shower. Just strip and enter the water. I think there is pseudo-nudist in me. I just loved it. Out in the open amidst nature – in a bamboo forest; the roof of a Shinto shrine visible nearby; blue skies on top; and I, relaxing in hot blue waters… Ah! It was awesome. The water was actually very hot. Despite the winter season and cold air on bare skin, it took me a splash of cold bucket full of water and 5 – 10 mins of jumping in and out of the onsen to adjust to it! But once it was bearable, I just didn’t want to come out! We went to another onsen later that day so I could have a shower and it was a three-in-one kind of onsen. It had a sulfuric bath, a new style bath and a rotenburo bath. When I walked to the roten, it was snowing. So not only have I seen and touched snow, I have been naked in snow! :)
We had Tofu made from natural spring water near Murasugi onsen. (Seriously, that spring water was the freshest water I have ever drank!) We also had natural fruit ice-cream. I chose sakura (cherry blossom), special Niigata pears, and wild strawberry flavours. Hikaru had machha, cream cheese and sweet potato. I liked mine better because the sour taste of wild strawberries contrasted the strong sweet of the pear. And the man served me more strawberry flavour than the rest, so it was awesome! (I love sour taste best!)
We went to some big and famous shrine later on. I was unenthusiastic as such shrines are scattered everywhere. If you have been to Meiji Shrine in Tokyo, you don’t need to go anywhere else really... Again the light was bad for photography, and it was really cold to enjoy anything. Sun had gone down and it was drizzling snow, if you know what I mean… This time, I hardly did any research before going to. I usually undertake as extensive a study as is possible. I left it to Hikaru’s discretion to take me wherever he felt best. So I don’t really remember the name of the Shrine or the Manor.
It was coming near to the time when I would have to catch my bus back to Tokyo. We had actually bought more time by requesting to board the bus from a stop in the middle instead of from where it originated. When we reached what we thought was the stop, we found out that we were on the opposite side. We had a minute or so to the scheduled time! To get to the other side, we would have to take a round about. Hikaru was on the phone with a girl at the bus center. We were lost and couldn’t find the stop. It was nerve-racking. Last time I felt like this was when Dave and I ran against time to catch our ferry to Ishigaki (which we missed!) Hikaru had a car and we could have gone to the next stop, but it would have been a bit problematic for Hikaru to drive all that way. So it was critical to catch the bus here itself. Thankfully, it was running 10 mins late due to snow, so we made it. I don’t know if the bus was waiting for me or not, but it was standing there and the driver was outside waiting with the luggage compartment open. I was out of breadth and I managed to thank Hikaru, say goodbye and board the bus.

‘Mama’ had packed an ume onigiri bento (plum rice ball box) for me, along with maanju, cake, extra ume boshi (pickled plum), and Japanese orange called Nagasaki. She had used goma (sesame) with the rice, and packed the nori (seaweed) separately so that it wouldn’t get soggy. It was so good! I have not had a better onegiri ever! Am salivating with the memory of it!

On the way back it snowed like crazy in the first hour of the ride. I was amazed at the driver though, he overtook so many cars and went at a speed which seemed very fast considering the bad weather. When we stopped at the first service area for a break, I felt what real fresh snow feels like, and also made a chisai yuki daruma – or a small snowman! I wish we had more time at the service area so I play more. (Although, it wasn’t so much fun alone!)

On the way I saw so much snow – it had snowed maybe a feet or more. It was so beautiful. I started to cry. Most people who know me, know that there is very little that wouldn’t make me cry. I was really overwhelmed. I wanted this to have happened yesterday in central Niigata. I wanted to be able to run and jump in that whiteness. I wanted more time in that snow. I wanted time to freeze.

I would say that for a non-skier, it was not such a great time to have gone! After I left it snowed afresh in central Niigata (where I had stayed) and Hikaru told me to come back. Perhaps during the many interesting festivals, or spring/autumn would have been the better seasons to visit Niigata. But two of my utmost desires were fulfilled during my stay - to relax at an open air onsen and to see snow. Because of these I can say that my visit was successful. But I would still like to visit again with more research put into it, and see more of the cultural aspect of Niigata. Maybe next time I visit Japan…

(for all those who read this 2246-word blog entry: please tell me and you will get an unlimited number of free copies of my book, when I write it. Promise! :) )

Sensoji

Sensoji is the most famous temple in a district called Asakusa in Tokyo. I went there five years ago with my mom, sis and two girls students of my father. I did omikuji (like fortune-telling). But I didn't have 100 yen change and forgot to drop it when I did obtain the change. The fortune was good, and I went back to Delhi, applied for MA and got the hostel. And all was well. But I could not get it out of my head that I did it for free by mistake.

So I had it in my head that I must visit Asakusa whenever I went to Tokyo next. I did come out here but it so happened that a trip to Asakusa didn't materialise. But this time it did. We went to Asakusa with the delegates of the conference. And I thanked the gods there for the good fortune and I dropped the 100 yen long overdue.. My M.A. years were two of the best years for me. I don't think it was solely because of the omikuji, but at least I don't suffer from any guilt anymore! :)

Harajuku Cosu-play

I wanted to see this for a long time. But I have a feeling that winters is not really the best time for this... After all, in warmer weathers one does not have to think about layers of sweaters and overcoats. I still found a few cosuplayers hanging around, coz the Japanese youth will do anything for fashion...

This guy :

was posing with one of his legs up for photographs that foreigners were taking. I caught him at a time when there was a lull in attention being showered on him. I thought it was very kawaii so...

Anyone for free hugs?

Maybe I will go again in warmer times. Plus, for the sake of variety, I wouldn't mind seeing such exhibition again.

A Stranger’s Goodness of Heart

It was about 2:15 am on 1st January 2009. We had celebrated the New Year at Zojoji Temple and were returning home, tired and sleepy but happy for what had been a very interesting night.

The evening had been full of novelty. I had dined on vegetarian Mexican food for the first time, out of the first fully vegetarian menu card I have seen in Tokyo! I celebrated the countdown standing alone on the road while around me the drunk mass of people made crazy noise and movement. I also saw over a thousand or so balloons go up in the air live for the first time. They were carrying wishes straight to the gods in heaven. I visited a temple, prayed to Kami Sama, did omikuji (fortune seeking) and bought omamori (a good luck charm) – the traditional way of celebrating the New Year in Japan for the first time. I also tasted Amazake (traditional hot rice sake) for the first time. But that was not enough adventure for the night.

At the ticket counter of Nishi Kasai Rail Station, a woman came up to me with her hand held out. She said, “I have something for you.” Initially distrust crept into my head for a split second. A bit taken aback, I looked down at what she was holding out to me. It was a day pass on the Tokyo Metro subway network. It had cost her 710 yen, and was still valid for another 3 hours until 5am that morning. (In Tokyo, the trains run till early hours of the morning only for the New Year; at other times they shut down for the night.)

This lady was probably returning home, and had no more use for the ticket. She could have taken the ticket home or thrown it away after having no need for it like many people usually do, but she thought it better to pass it on to someone who could use it further. I don’t know if she sought a gaijin (foreigner) on purpose or that I was just the first person she saw and approached. I thanked her with much surprise and gratitude. Although, it saved me a mere 270 yen (about Rs.135 in India, but meager in Japan), it was the selfless act to start the New Year with that more important and left a deep impact on me. I must pay it forward to make it last.